I made pörkölt tonight. As it happens, I just scanned my aunt's handwritten recipe to send to my cousin. I don't make it the same way my aunt did...I don't even spell it right. (Looks like in Hungarian you don't have an r in it.)
It made me think of a passage from a book I just read, Heat by Bill Buford. In fact, I read it on the trip, so family and food for on my mind then, too. (Betta is the Italian woman who taught Buford how to make pasta by hand, the way her aunts taught her.)
But often I wonder what Betta would think, and, like that, I'm back in that valley with its broken-combed mountain tops and the wolves at night and the ever-present feeling that the world is much bigger than you, and my mind becomes a jumble of associations, of aunts and a round table and laughter you can't hear any more, and I am overcome by a feeling of loss. It is, I concluded, a side effect of this kind of food, one that's handed down from one generation to another, often in conditions of adversity, that you end up thinking of the dead, that the very stuff that sustains you tastes somehow of mortality.Posted by Nic at September 27, 2006 06:12 PM | TrackBack
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